In the last post I looked at the ebay Bi-xenon projector and how that worked, this post is about how to dismantle the original headlight, remove the original projector and fit the Bi-xenon projector. I like to use pictures in my blogs because it is easier to look at bits that have not been mentioned in the text. This first picture was mentioned in the text of the last post, the state of the lens on the original projector was nearly as bad as I expected it to be!
After removal and dismantling, I wiped the inside of the right hand side of this lens with a clean cloth, it made a huge difference. The camera does not show how bad it is, but look at the red circle and see the difference between clean and dirty. Just doing this would have improved the light output on dip, but I wanted more!
First thing to do is to remove the eight screws from the joint between the two black plastic parts of the headlight. I like to do things like this on a bright flat surface, so the kitchen table was ideal, thanks Jude.
You will notice that there is a black mastic sealant at this joint, but I suspect that it is just a sealant and not a jointing compound.
The whole reflector/projector unit is held into the back part of the headlight with these square plastic pegs, there are three of them and they only need squeezing together in the direction of the arrows to release the unit. Try not to turn the square pegs, which will stay with the rear plastic part, as they are there for adjusting the headlight beam.
When removed from the assembly the four marked screws will allow the old projector to come off the mounting plate. The two screws between these four allow you to split the projector should you be the curious type, but it is only going in the bin on this project.
And here are the two parts separated. A good idea at this point is to mark the mounting plate with a marker pen so that you can quickly see which side is the back. You also need to remember that the cutoff plate inside the projector goes at the top of the headlight as the light is 180 degrees out as with a camera.
This is a busy looking picture, but I will explain: The blue circle is a bit of sellotape that I used to mark the back as my marker pen was down in the garage and I could not be bothered to fetch it. The yellow lines are the centre line of where the old projector fitted and where the new one should line up. The red parts are where I had to file the mounting plate to fit the new projector. I did the filing using hand files rather than power tools as it was easy to do. The green circles are the three mounting screws that hold the new projector into the mounting plate.
The astute readers will notice that in the above picture I had mounted the projector upside down! You can see the cutoff through the bulb hole and that is on the bottom of the mounting plate. That would have given me a dip beam that dipped upwards. I changed it around after the picture was taken.
Refit the four screws that attach the mounting plate to the reflector assembly and make sure that the projector lens sits central in that unit. If it does not then loosen the screws and reposition the projector in the mounting plate. At this point it is a good idea to cut the wires for the solenoid and fit connectors onto them. I connected the black one, with a ring tag to one of the screws next to the main beam bulb. The red one will get a piggy back Lucar connector to the main beam supply wire.
Next step is to push the unit back into the rear of the headlight. and screw the two halves back together with the eight screws. The joint can be resealed with silicone or mastic and the bulbs and headlamp can be refitted to the bike.
What have we now achieved? The dip beam will be the same as before, but with a clean lens may be 50% brighter. When we flick on the main beam, the same bulb, in the left of the above picture, will come on giving us the main beam, but the cutoff will also move out of the way giving another main beam from the projector.
A word of caution: When filing the projector mounting plate, try to do it by hand. If you use power tools then do not let it get hot. I say this because I thing that it may be cadmium plated for corrosion proofing and cadmium can be toxic when very hot. I must have learned something in my 25 years of aircraft maintenance! If I had some sheet aluminium of the correct thickness then I would have made up a new mounting plate.
Future posts will cover fitting a HID (High Intensity Discharge) xenon kit to this headlight, and enhancements that can be made before fitting to the bike.